FASHION | New York Fashion Week Fall 2014 Roundup

First off, my sincere apologies for the recent lack of updates. It's been a hectic week of research and writing for the following article but I assure you that there will be more amazing content soon to come (look carefully and you'll even find a new addition to the site that is already up and running). That, and many more coming soon to Cut & Copy!

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Mercedes Benz Fashion Week kicked off Fall 2014 with a number of strong collections geared towards practicality; most notable in the outerwear department where survival appears to be a recurring theme for designers.

With MBFW comes a certain amount of sportswear that is signature to the design aesthetic of New York's vibrant fashion scene. Monochromatic hues appear on many of the collections with figures either exaggerated by large overcoats or restrained with sharp menswear-inspired tailoring. Textural elements such as jacquards, wool knits, satin and fur is another key trend revealing innovative fabrics that seamlessly merge comfort with design, especially when combined together creating new methods of construction.

Below is a selection of my favourite MBFW designers for Fall 2014 together with a short review for each show. Noteworthy collections include Alexander Wang, Christian Siriano, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and Suno. 

Stay tuned for more Fashion Week roundup reports in the next couple of weeks. Next stop, London!

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3.1 Phillip Lim

The Lim woman is not afraid of strong personalities; carrying an attitude that translates into elevated workwear pieces for the everyday woman. Many of the individual pieces stand out on their own as a strong representation of Lim's sportswear aesthetic, with many of Fall's must-have items, such as the shearling coat and lavender skirt, all making an appearance throughout the collection. Collage is used quite frequently as a design motif (also another key trend for the season), as exemplified by the patchwork shearling coat and printed lounge pants. Of course, one can't simply forget the eye-catching pastel lace-up boots that will have people lining up for more.

Alexander Wang

Fierce isn't enough of an adjective to describe Alexander Wang's Fall 2014 collection held at the prohibitively hard-to-reach Brooklyn Navy Yard. It was all about survival this season with editors clamouring for their personal drivers in New York City's unforgiving winter blizzard and gridlocked traffic. On that note, models wore utilitarian clothes as if to prophesy similarly adverse weather conditions for the following season with knee high wellington boots and coats fitted with army-style pockets. It's definitely 'survival of the fittest' in a grim-looking future where one cannot be without practical measures; a USB compartment placed at the side of the boots, for example (an unfortunate location in my opinion). Knits and various types of outerwear such as shearling jackets (a must-have item for Fall 2014), windbreakers and parkas all made an appearance with some form of graphic element embedded to the fabric.

Clearly, Wang is incomplete without a show-stopping finale to rival the drama and shock factor of the late Alexander McQueen. Models stood in a defiant stance at the perimeter of a circular platform which rotated to the crackles of digitalised thunder and a trap-y bass-driven soundtrack. That, together with another of Wang's 'warriors' marching in the opposite direction made for a dazzling sight to behold. Oh top of that, models on the rotating platform wore laser cut jackets made of an innovative heat-activated fabric that changed colour when heated. If Wang wants us to get anything out of his show, it's that survival lies at the heart of a fashion revolution for the hidden soldier in all of us. Military jackets and all...

Altuzarra

Joseph Altuzarra definitely knows how to please women. With every season, the French born Chinese-American brings his sexy French muse to the table (or runway for that matter) with his signature outerwear pieces that is always effortlessly chic. Spring 2013 recalls one of my favourite collections with jackets that had vents through which you can put your arms in like a fashion editor's 'cape'. Come Fall 2014, Altuzarra has done it again with must-have items such as the opening cashmere overcoat double-faced with an oversized shawl collar, textural hand-loomed pieces that evoked artisinal qualities and shearling jackets made from the softest of wool. As they always say, the devil is in the details. For the Altuzarra woman, the motto 'comfort in design' has never been more true.

Christian Siriano

Project Runway alum Christian Siriano was definitely a surprise for Fall 2014. It had always seemed to me in previous seasons that the woman he wanted to dress was constantly shrouded in a cloud of mystery; always floating between different contexts. This season, however, Siriano made it apparent from the beginning that his woman is a dark romantic, whose Hitchcockian wardrobe boasts stunning A-line skirts, form-flattering evening wear and couture sensibilities. It's not surprising that he was largely inspired by the photographs of the late Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn, wife to both Fernand Fonssagrives and iconic photographer Irving Penn. The stunning silver floor-length gown near the end was definitely a warm welcome to his return to form; referencing the humble beginnings with his glamorous final collection that made him a Project Runway legend. In the words of a reality-show winner turned fashion designer, one cannot deny that his Fall 2014 collection was "fierce, fabulous and flawless".

Dion Lee

Regional winner of the International Woolmark Prize in 2012, Australian bred Dion Lee is infamous for his strong design aesthetic that is always sexy and never without inspiration from his home country. For Fall 2014, Lee was inspired by the historical beginnings of a colonialised Australia with convict attire informing him of striped motifs, boxy silhouettes and a monochrome palette. Sleek, sexy and most definitely fabulous, Lee's collection is a technological marvel with his skilful manipulation of leather and exotic skins. Body-con dresses that have become a signature to the Dion Lee woman are reinforced in this collection with noteworthy leather weaving and sliver embroidery.

J. Mendel

One cannot get anymore fabulous than a woman wearing J. Mendel for Fall 2014. Fur is used extensively on many of the looks, instilling a sense of luxury and glamour to the collection. Stripes and chevrons were aplenty, with extravagant furs dyed in bright hues that inevitably catch your attention. Towards the end, Mendel presented feminine looking silhouettes with pleated chiffon gowns flowing to the wind. What made it even more memorable however, is the masterful application of embellished crystal embroidery on tulle inserts placed around the collar or waists of the show-stopping evening wear gowns. Stunning, to say the least.

Jeremy Scott

Jeremy Scott has always been regarded as the audacious comedian in fashion. Typically associated with tongue-in-cheek prints and unabashedly loud slogans, Scott's endeavour to the sportier side of fashion is no surprise for his Fall 2014 collection. Fuzzy football jersey maxi dresses are as comfortable as they seem and should easily be street style bait for the following season. Meanwhile, corset skirts, bustiers and shoes are all given the football pad treatment. Fashion armour for the wild and wicked? Yes, please.

Jonathan Simkhai

Sex is in the air at Jonathan Simkhai's Fall collection. With an urban looking presentation that focused on separates, Simkhai creates a new kind of sportswear infused with aggressively sexy silhouettes. For example, the stunning leather bustier tops and peekaboo cutouts at the side of a turtleneck gloriously celebrates the female form. Other notable pieces include the embossed crocodile sleeveless turtleneck and the woven jacquard dress that reminded one of 3.1 Phillip Lim's sporty design aesthetic. All in all, definitely a street style, if not runway, worthy collection.

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Joined forces Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier become the new designers for Marc by Marc Jacobs (with a change of name to MBMJ for future collections). Fall 2014 presented female empowerment as a recurring theme throughout the collection as models are transformed into fierce warrior types that underpin Marc Jacobs' fascination towards street culture. Retro slogans and loud prints were aplenty whilst menswear elements were added to the collection by way of sportswear. Also worth noting are the sneakers that are undoubtedly streetstyle worthy with its graphic retro design.

MM6 by Maison Martin Margeila

Minimalism and avant garde has always been a part of Maison Martin Margeila. The diffusion line MM6 presents a Fall collection that is both utilitarian and poetic; created in part by the innovative use of new fabrics on timeless everyday pieces. Take the bubble wrap T-shirt for example, it has the ease of something you would wear everyday but tailored in a material that you would least expect to be used on clothes. The simple basics of a woman's wardrobe gets elevated by the

Proenza Schouler

Exaggerated silhouettes have always been a favourite of mine. With Proenza Schouler, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez emphasised the structural form with nipped waists, rounded shoulders and voluminous sleeves. The fabric itself was also quite ingenious, first being its stiffness and second being the way different fabrics have been incorporated onto one piece. Take the dresses for example; leather and wool crepe were mixed together to create an innovative pattern bordering on collage (a technique used previously for the Spring 2013 collection - a favourite of mine, mind you). On that note, the prints themselves were also quite noteworthy with speckles of paint and marbling in subdued hues, adding an extra dimension to the captivating silhouettes.

Sass & Bide

Australian brand Sass & Bide is always one to count on for über-sexy dresses. Fall 2014 is no exception with form fitting silhouettes that exude glamour and sophistication (skyscraper legs a given, no doubt). With gold embroidery and slick tailoring, creative director Heidi Middleton makes a smart move to reevaluate the brand vocabulary for better recognition in the US market. Of course, Fall 2014 wasn't without its surprises. New silhouettes such as the plaid romper were introduced, elevating the Sass & Bide woman to heights previously unexplored.

Suno

Having read the Style.com review, I was blithely unaware of the backstory for Suno's Fall 2014 collection based upon a gypsies' rags-to-riches story. What caught my eye, however, was the tasteful use of prints and the selection of fabrics that was luxuriously textural and simply unassuming. I immediately fell in love with the first look of the show with a simple shift dress that featured exposed hems and a shoelace cinched neckline; raw yet effortlessly chic. These so-called 'gypsies' got the luxe makeover as the skilful mélange of prints that spoke of an exotic tribalism were tailored in shiny duchesse satin. Add polka dots to the combination? I'm in heaven. The latter part of the collection further reinforce the gypsy-gone-glam mindset with a stunning gold jacquard dress that speaks volumes for Suno's Fall collection. Definitely one of the better shows from MBFW.

Thakoon

Thakoon's synonymous association with bright colours and elevated daywear is favoured by the likes of Michelle Obama and Anna Wintour. It's no doubt then, that his skilful use of layering and collaged prints this season would be put to good use for Fall 2014. Pieces like the floral flounce dress tailored to look like two separates happens to be a trick of the eye; amongst many other similarly innovative details such as the ruched chiffon made to resemble fleece on several tops and dresses. Evidently, my eyes were fixed on the turtleneck sweaters that were draped into cape-like toplets and styled over sleeveless print dresses. Explosive patches of neon intermixed with earthier shades of camel added to the wow factor, lending a breath of fresh air in contrast to the constant use of monochrome this season. Thakoon is a clearly at an advantage over his fellow designers. Together with his masterful manipulation of fabrics and a collection grounded in reality, the Thai designer manages to convince his audience with cleverly designed separates and the layering of such separates in a new light.

Theory

No one cuts a meaner suit than Olivier Theyskens at Theory. With the practicality of uncomplicated tailoring key to Theory's DNA, the Belgian designer promises to deliver polish, but with a twist. And boy, did he deliver. Take the jackets, for example. Cut from a sheer black fabric, the translucency helps expose small construction details usually withheld from the person wearing it. The slick belted suit jacket is yet another piece that delivers on Theyskens promise for polish; with a flourish of ruffles accentuating the hips and providing an interesting dialogue with the otherwise strict tailoring. Ruffles are further introduced in the asymmetrical skirts that expose some thigh and sway to the motion of the models. Fragility and tenacity is a thin line that Theyskens capitalises on. Without a doubt, Theyskens' noble quest for sophistication has manifested itself into a beautifully executed collection for Fall 2014.

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham's collection for Fall 2014 wasn't initially planned for this MBFW roundup. Having said that, after meeting up with Emily for a quick outfit shoot, she gasped at the prospect of not including Posh Spice. In all honesty, I usually overlook Victoria Beckham (or any other music artist-cum-fashion designer for that matter) but I was pleasantly surprised this season with a sharply tailored collection that featured her signature menswear tailoring reinterpreted for womenswear. The first look with the collection-defining white cashmere coat was an exercise in restraint; pure lines and a minimalist silhouette was cleverly accented by a gold chain that did away with normal button closures. A cheeky surprise also presented itself by way of abstract prints, briefly interrupting the stark monochromatic looks. Wavy strokes of colour were printed on a pleated skirt, also making an appearance on a well-tailored sweater featuring soft waves of pleating that was contrasted with a pair of rounded bias-cut raglan sleeves. Technically, Victoria Beckham's collection exceeded my expectations by a long shot. For that, I'm glad I took Emily's advice and included this collection to my list.