A super belated post I know, but there was no way I could forget about the London Fall 2014 collections. Innovative fabric development and a melancholic vibe dominated many of the shows this season. Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou highlighted pleating as one of the key trends while large oversized coats and fur trimmings have become must-have items for Fall 2014. Metallics also appeared in many of the collections from the sleek silver tuxedo in Todd Lynn to the luxuriously iridescent shirt and pants ensemble from Ostwald Hegalson. Favourites of mine include Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou, Matthew Williamson and Roksanda Illincic.
Due to my increasingly prohibitive schedule at school, I'm afraid I'll have to change the format of these posts to a shorter 3-liner summary. Hope you guys will enjoy the lighter reading!
Click below to see the list of my favourite London Fall 2014 collections!
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Christopher Kane
The Cut: A schizophrenic girl whose sweetness is counterbalanced with her dark side.
What I love: Intricately knitted tops evocative of the Victorian era, the pink knee-length coat with crystals scattered on the side, the fur lined PVC dress, the delicate lace pieces in pink, white and black and the organza dresses.
Must-have item: Look 30 - The pink overcoat
Christopher Raeburn
The Cut: 'Survival of the fittest'. Sportswear redefined by military/boy scout-esque cutting and luxe fabrics.
What I love: The first look with the beige faux fur gilet, the 'parachute' jacket in neon orange and the military jackets with neoprene sleeves
Must-have item: The military jackets
David Koma
The Cut: Slick, sexy and dangerous, Koma revisits his signature pieces with leather manipulated into weaves, pleats and other technological feats.
What I love: The caged harnesses, accordion skirts and dresses with leather weaving.
Must-have item: Look 26 - The weaved leather coat
Erdem
The Cut: A moody woman whose love for flowers is reinterpreted by Erdem's signature embroidery.
What I love: The beautifully draped and embroidered dresses, the opening velvet number and the cropped shearling jackets with rounded shoulders.
Must-have item: The floral embroidered dress
House of Holland
The Cut: Unapologetic tongue-in-cheek humour interspersed with a loud splash of metallics and sequins.
What I love: Oh, the colours! The metallic pieces and quilted coats with cheeky embroidery really caught my eye.
Must-have item: The striped sequinned tops
Jean Pierre Braganza
The Cut: Aggressive looking tailoring with a rock 'n' roll attitude.
What I love: The oversized cocoon coats with rounded sleeves and the overall silhouettes that reminded me of street fighters and ninjas.
Must-have item: The opening perfecto jacket with the black and silver print
Jonathan Saunders
The Cut: Dark and melancholic, Saunders presents an incongruous collection filled with his infamous fabric manipulation that seem mismatched, disjointed or falling apart. The muted palette adds to the dystopian flavour but he successfully delivers on a collection that promises a bright future with clothes that continue to challenge our perceptions of beauty.
What I love: The checker pattern appearing in various configurations (collage, appliqué, print...) and the mix of different textures.
Must-have item: The 'leg-of-mutton' coats
KTZ
The Cut: Over-the-top Islamic patterns and intricate Handira blanket embroideries on leggings, flirty skirts and draped tops.
What I love: The detailed embroidery on every item.
Must-have item: The black organza tee with a geometric laser cut pattern in leather
Marios Schwab
The Cut: Seduction is Marios Schwab's weapon of choice with his sexy silhouettes and romantic chiffon dresses in shades of blue and white.
What I love: Over-the-shoulder draping and the embroidered chiffon
Must-have item: Look 26 - white chiffon dress with bodice panels
Mary Katrantzou
The Cut: Quel surprise! Mary Katrantzou's first collection without a single print in sight is a breath of fresh air and definitely a welcome surprise. That is not to say she's lost her charm. In fact, she more than makes up for it with her powerful tailoring and fabric manipulation that generates a similar, if not better-looking, version of her kaleidoscopic prints.
What I love: Lace, jacquards and brocades intermixed with a mesmerising display of pleats, sporty silhouettes and gorgeous floor length gowns.
Must-have item: The opening pleated floor-length gown and the baby doll dress with embroidered appliqué
Matthew Williamson
The Cut: Studio 54 was definitely on Matthew Williamson's mind with a collection filled with fun party clothes. The starburst runway was a dead giveaway for a print-filled collection strongly reflected in degradé furs and party-loving ostrich feather dresses.
What I love: The cute jumpsuits with circular prints and the overall energy of the collection.
Must-have item: Hands down, the ostrich-feather dress.
Ostwald Hegalson
The Cut: Art, or more specifically, Pop Art was Ostwald Hegalson's point of inspiration for his sportswear-inspired collection. Cheeky 3D printed Warholian silkscreen fruits, Kiefer-esque prints and metallic hues are definitely memorable aspects that is sure to find a following for streetstyle lovers.
What I love: Cute tongue-in-cheek art references reflected throughout the collection.
Must-have item: The liquid silver shirt and pants ensemble
Peter Pilotto
The Cut: LFW has always been famous for its prints but it was bound to be a trend that eventually had to go away. Peter Pilotto and fellow designer Mary Katrantzou took a different approach for Fall 2014 with a more textual expression in their 'prints'. Mesh, embroidery, ribbed knits and furs all contributed to the collection's intentional sensory overload.
What I love: The mix-and-match styling and over-the-top prints.
Must-have item: The floral print dresses with leather straps and the Haring-esque pieces
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
The Cut: Dior Homme meets Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto in Preen's Fall 2014 sport-chic collection.
What I love: Sporty red accents were seen throughout the show with gorgeous ribbed knit skirts, a racing checkerboard print and metallic fabrics being the mainstay.
Must-have item: Look 37 - green army coat with fur trimming and red accents
Roksanda Illincic
The Cut: Illincic's bold use of colour is well balanced with her signature exaggerated silhouettes. For Fall 2014, the element of collage has never been more apparent with Tetris-like arrangements and patchwork coats.
What I love: The colour scheme - hues of blue, camel, burgundy in combination with a variety of bright and vibrant accents
Must-have item: Style.com put it best, "...a no-holds-barred patchwork coat of shearling, fox, mink, and curly lamb's wool"
Simone Rocha
The Cut: Edgy and romantic, the Simone Rocha girl is all about subverting Victorian-esque tailoring with a punk, post-modern attitude.
What I love: Bulky silhouettes, Elizabethan-styled details and Rocha's interpretation of the classic tartan in a modern, translucent fabric.
Must-have item: Look 14 - an avant-garde black satin shift coat with bows and ruffles
Todd Lynn
The Cut: Menswear tailoring and outerwear dominated the collection with fabrics of various textures that illustrated Lynn's goth glam aesthetic.
What I love: Lynn's balance between rock-chic and strong feminine tailoring
Must-have item: Look 8 and 10 - The pleated overcoat made to resemble separates and the liquid silver tuxedo
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